Rolex watches have transcended their utilitarian purpose to become symbols of status and achievement. The brand’s association with high-profile events, celebrities, and athletes has further reinforced its standing in popular culture. Cultural icons like Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, James Bond, and Martin Luther King Jr. have all sported Rolex watches.
James Bond popularized Rolex in popular culture
The collector’s market for vintage Rolex watches is diverse, with enthusiasts that are casual buyers to serious investors and focused collectors. Many collectors seek specific models that hold personal significance, such as watches produced in their birth year. Others focus on rare pieces that may appreciate in value over time. Such market dynamic creates a strong demand for vintage Rolex watches.
In the latest edition of Vintage Rolex: The Largest Collection in the World, author David Silver takes readers on a journey through the history with examples of Rolex watches from early days until the neo-vintage period. This updated volume not only celebrates Rolex’s 120th anniversary but also marks the 30th anniversary of The Vintage Watch Company, which Silver co-owns with his father.
David Silver, co-owner of The Vintage Watch Company in London and author of four Vintage Rolex books
Located in London’s historic Burlington Arcade, The Vintage Watch Company offers a unique shopping experience for watch enthusiasts. The shop claims to have one of the largest collections of vintage Rolex watches (over 2,000) in the world. The diverse inventory that ranges from entry-level Oysters to rare vintage Stella models. According to Mr. Silver, 40-50% of vintage watch clients are women, whether buying for themselves—including men’s models—or buying as a gift for their significant others.
The new Vintage Rolex book is updated in a meaningful way from the 2020 volume. With an additional 300 watches featured, this edition expands on Rolex’s notable vintage pieces, including Tropical watches and the double signed Tiffany & Co watches. These additions are worthy reference points to the growing demand for unique (and in some cases rare) Rolex watches among collectors.
Vintage Rolex: The Largest Collection in the World featuring rare purple lacquer Stella Oyster Day … More
As much as I would label this as reference book, due to its glossy hardcover and over 2,100 full-color images, it could easily pass for a casual coffee table book. Beyond the impressive visuals, Mr. Silver provides detailed descriptions, historical context, and insights into the significance of various Rolex models. This in-depth approach provides readers a deeper understanding of the Rolex brand and special vintage models.
Current trends in the vintage watch market indicate a growing interest in Rolex models with unique features, such as colored dials, stone dials, and distinctive patinas. Collectors are increasingly drawn to pieces that tell a story, whether through their design or their previous owners. This shift in focus has led to a renewed interest in vintage Rolex watches.
Entire section to Stella and stone dials with rare references
Mr. Silver dedicates an entire section to Stella and stone dials. Even the book cover features the rare purple lacquer Stella Oyster Day Date. Rolex introduced the Stella dials in the 1970s. These dials are characterized by their bright colors and enamel finish. The project was carried out in collaboration with the Stella company, based in Châtelaine and Geneva, which supplied a specialized lacquer for their production. Stella dials were produced between 1970s and 1990s and author states that these dials were especially popular in the Middle East market.
Paul Newman wearing his 1968 Daytona that sold in Phillips auction for record $17.8M in 2017
In the comprehensive vintage Rolex Sports watch section, Mr. Silver dedicates a chapter to the “Paul Newman” Daytona. In 2017, Paul Newman’s 1968 Daytona sold at Phillips auction house in New York for $17.8M including buyer’s premium.
1970 Gold Rolex Submariner Date with tropical dial
The author also dedicates a chapter to tropical dials where the color of the dial changes with exposure to heat, sunlight, and humidity. Most common are black dials changing to brown, and blue dials turning to purple. Environmental factors also impact the color of the vintage Rolex bezel.
Tiffany & Co “double signed” Rolex Daytonas
The last chapter is dedicated to Rolex’s collaboration with Tiffany & Co. Both Rolex and Tiffany & Co names are featured on the dial, hence it is also known as “double signed” dial. The double signed vintage Tiffany dials carry a heavy premium, especially for the Daytona models.
This guide does not cover every aspect of Rolex collecting and is not intended to confer expert-level knowledge. Instead, it offers a visual supplement to existing Rolex literature, showcasing a selection of vintage Rolex watches that have passed through Mr. Silver’s shop and been professionally photographed.
The Vintage Rolex: New Edition is published by Harper Collins and is available from May 2025. Retail price of the book is USD 130.